Crowned in Chemicals? A Closer Look at Braiding Hair by Laila Lawson

There are many reasons why Black women choose hair extension hairstyles. These choices can be health-related—minimizing hair manipulation, reducing breakage, and promoting hair growth—or rooted in self-expression and the desire for versatility in appearance. Among the most popular extension styles, braids are by far the most widely used. They require minimal maintenance, can last for weeks, and are often a more affordable option compared to sew-ins, wig installations, and other alternatives. However, this style is not without its drawbacks, some of which include traction alopecia, dry scalp, hair breakage from improper takedown/installation, and inflammation of hair follicles (folliculitis). Now, studies have come out speaking on the toxic chemical components found in many synthetic hair extensions. This article will explore two studies that delve into the materials used in braiding hair, shedding light on the potential health risks they pose.

Study #1 Lab Findings of the 10 Most Popular Synthetic Braiding Hair Products 

Consumer Reports (CR) launched an investigation into what makes up braiding hair after Chrystal Thomas, a student at the Albert Einstein College of Medicine, had a bad reaction to her braids only days after getting them installed. Chrystal proceeded to research the health issues tied to braiding hair extensions and published her findings in a piece titled “Carcinogenic materials in synthetic braids: an unrecognized risk of hair products for Black women”. Her article stirred up conversation within the Black community about the safety of synthetic hair. 

What concerned Chrystall Thomas most was the extended period that Black women often keep synthetic braided styles in. In her article, she cites that Kanekalon poses serious health risks. “Modacrylic fiber is composed of acrylonitrile and vinyl chloride, both of which are toxic to humans. The Environmental Protection Agency classifies acrylonitrile as a probable human carcinogen. The National Cancer Institute directly links vinyl chloride with leukemia, lymphoma, and rare forms of liver, brain, and lung cancers”.

The Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) sets the maximum exposure limits for acrylonitrile and vinyl chloride at 0.002 g/L and 0.001 g/L over an 8-hour workday. Chrystall’s calculation of a typical full head of braids using 26-inch extension packs estimated that weavers are in prolonged contact with about 800 grams of Kanekalon fiber over an eight-week period, the typical duration braids are worn. While this figure reflects the total amount of synthetic material used, not the exact level of chemical exposures, it still highlights the potential for continuous inhalation of toxic vapors released from the fibers over time

Effects of Key Toxic Chemicals 

Dr. James E. Rogers, PhD, director and head of product safety testing at CR, led the CR investigation. They looked at ten of the most popular synthetic braiding products. The top three findings concluded that there were carcinogens detected in all samples, lead traces were found in all but one product, and other volatile organic compounds (VOCs) such as acetone were detected in all products. 

The CR lab found carcinogens, chemicals known to cause cancer. They are the same components found in tobacco products, asbestos, pesticides, and many other harmful substances linked to increased cancer risk. CR then tested for heavy metals like cadmium, lead, and arsenic. All but one were found to have lead, which, with prolonged exposure, can cause damage to the brain and nervous system, reproductive issues and kidney damage. Lastly, Consumer Reports' investigation found that acetone, a commonly used solvent, was the highest concentrated VOC in the samples. Harmful VOCs may be released into the air when synthetic braids are heated, like dipping them in hot water to seal ends. These chemicals can cause a range of health issues, including eye, nose, and throat irritation; nausea; damage to the central nervous system; and, in some cases, cancer.

Study #2 Lab Findings of Radiation Exposure of Chemically Processed Extensions

This second study, titled “Synthetic hair extensions and radiation dose during cranial angiographic procedures,” compares the radiation dose in two patients with synthetic hair extensions to a control group of 10 patients. Results showed higher radiation exposure in the two patients with synthetic extensions. Patients had a brain scan called cerebral angiography to check for high pressure in the brain’s veins. 

The results suggest that wearing artificial hair extensions can significantly increase radiation exposure during medical imaging, particularly in procedures like digital subtraction angiography. The findings show that patients with more extensions had up to 86% higher radiation exposure, while those with less noticeable extensions experienced a 29% increase. This has brought greater attention to the concerning health risks associated with extension hairstyles.

Conclusions 

In conclusion, the growing concerns about the safety of hair products catering to Black women, especially synthetic braiding hair, cannot be ignored. More and more products are being called out for containing toxic chemicals, such as carcinogens, heavy metals, and VOCs, which pose serious health risks like cancer, brain damage, and respiratory issues. With no recalls or sufficient regulation in place, it’s crucial for consumers to take responsibility for their health by researching the products they use, reading labels carefully, and reporting any adverse effects. Something must be done to address this issue, but in the meantime, awareness and caution are key.

References

Consumer Reports. (2023). Dangerous chemicals detected in braiding hair: CR tested popular synthetic hair brands and found concerning levels of toxins. https://www.consumerreports.org/health/wigs-hair-extensions/dangerous-chemicals-detected-in-braiding-hair-cr-tested-a4850978424/

Hernández, A. F., & Buha, A. (2023). Environmental toxicants and endocrine-disrupting chemicals in hair care products: Health risk implications. International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health, 20(11), 6044. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10238826/

Lazarevic, N., Murati, J., Carberry, C., & Dhanjani, A. (2024). Radiation dose increase due to synthetic hair extensions in neurointerventional procedures. Neuroradiology Journal. Advance online publication. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC11571131/