Rooted in Balance: How pH Shapes your Hair Health By Laila Lawson

What is pH Balance? What is its relationship to scalp/hair
Over the years, people have sworn by porosity, trims, and trendy hair treatments as the keys to a healthy, thriving year. However, we often tend to overlook one foundational factor that governs the strength, shine, and integrity of our strands–pH. The pH scale–short for potential hydrogen–measures the concentration of hydrogen ions in a substance ranging from 0 to 14. Anything below 7 is considered acidic, 7 is neutral, and anything above is basic. 

The scalp and hair follicles are generally acidic, with the scalp's pH typically around 5.5 and hair shaft around 3.67 (typically 3.5-4.5). When the natural acidity is maintained, the hair cuticle remains relatively smooth and sealed, allowing strands to retain moisture. Similarly, a balanced scalp pH supports healthy sebum production, keeping the scalp hydrated and not overly oily. This pH creates a stable microbiome and an intact skin barrier, reducing the risk of irritation and promoting overall scalp comfort.

Factors Disrupting pH balance & Effects 

Several factors can disrupt the pH balance of the scalp and hair, with the most common of them being hair care, product use, and stress. 

Shampoos and conditioners that are too basic can “...increase the negative electrical charge of hair fiber surface and, therefore, increase friction between fiber. This may lead to cuticle damage and fiber breakage”. The hair practices of overwashing and or underwashing can pose problems when it comes to maintaining the integrity of the scalp and hair. Dr. Talakoub wrote in the article “Too much or too little?” that overwashing the hair can cause dryness and splits. She specifically points out that those with chemical/heat treatments can cause more damage from overwashing because it strips the hair of its needed oils and sebum. On the flip side, the logic of infrequently washing hair can cause problems in some cases, according to Dr. Talakoub. As a result of underwashing, the buildup of oils, sebum, and styling products can lead to scalp inflammation, follicular plugging, seborrheic dermatitis (flaky patches with dandruff), and even folliculitis (bumps). Over time, this inflammation can result in itching, burning, and hair loss. 

Stress can also disrupt the pH balance of the scalp by triggering inflammation and hormonal changes. The body releases cortisol and other chemicals that can affect how your hair and scalp function. This can lead to increased oil production or dryness, both of which are known to throw off the natural pH. This makes the scalp susceptible to other problems developing, like dandruff, itching, and even hair loss. 

How to rebalance your scalp and hair 

So, what happens when the hair becomes too basic or too acidic? When the pH rises above this optimal range of 3.5-4.5, the hair cuticle begins to lift, exposing the inner hair shaft. This can lead to the loss of the hair’s natural oils and moisture. Additionally, the hair strand becomes increasingly negatively charged, causing strands to repel each other, resulting in frizz and tangles. In color-treated hair, the lifted cuticle lacks the integrity to hold onto pigment, which leads to fading of cooler tones and a brassy appearance. Apple cider vinegar mixture (pH 3) has been known to rebalance pH.

On the flip side, when the hair's pH drops too far below its ideal range, the cuticle becomes overly compacted. Excessive acidity restricts moisture retention and nutrient absorption. Hair in this state may feel stiff, dry, and prone to breakage due to reduced flexibility. It can also appear flat and lack volume or "bounce." The scalp may become irritated, showing signs of redness and sensitivity. Utilizing a pH-balancing conditioner as well as incorporating humectants like honey and emollients (e.g., shea butter) can help restore its flexibility and barrier.

In the general sense, it’s good to adopt a holistic approach that includes careful selection of hair care products and stress management. When choosing hair care products, opt for shampoos with a balanced pH for hair (which most trustworthy manufacturers already make sure to do) and avoid harsh synthetic ingredients such as sulfates (e.g., sodium lauryl sulfate), which can disrupt the skin barrier and cause dryness. It’s also important to stick to a consistent hair-washing routine—overwashing can strip the scalp of natural oils, while underwashing can lead to buildup and scalp inflammation. Finally, managing stress through relaxation techniques such as yoga, meditation, and mindfulness can help maintain optimal scalp health, preventing issues like dandruff, itching, and hair loss.

Conclusion
Maintaining the proper pH balance is crucial for scalp and hair health as it supports moisture retention, sebum production, and a balanced microbiome. Disruption of pH can lead to issues such as dryness, oiliness, irritation, and in severe cases, hair loss. To keep your scalp and hair in good condition, focus on suitable hair care and products, and managing stress. 

References

Atlas Scientific. (2024). pH in hair products. Atlas Scientific. https://atlas-scientific.com/blog/ph-in-hair-products/?srsltid=AfmBOorguF9G8KsSMRXBVUYk1-eEuxnCMQgCSZ8P3V3MakiaeE1pJXCY

Environmental Protection Agency. (2024). What is pH? U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. https://www.epa.gov/goldkingmine/what-ph

Koumparou, A., Gkogkou, D., & Zafiriou, E. (2015). Hair cosmetics: An overview. International Journal of Trichology, 7(1), 17–22. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC4458934/

Lamb, J. (2014). The role of pH in shampoos and conditioners. International Journal of Trichology, 6(3), 123–125. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC4158629/

Meridian College. (2024). Why is pH so important for scalp and hair health? https://www.meridian.edu/why-is-ph-so-important-for-scalp-and-hair-health/

NPR. (2009). Engineering a good hair day. https://www.npr.org/2009/03/18/102067582/engineering-a-good-hair-day

Talakoub, L. (2021). Hair washing: Too much or too little? The Hospitalist. https://blogs.the-hospitalist.org/content/hair-washing-too-much-or-too-little

Piotr Turkowski Clinic. (n.d.). Emollients, humectants, proteins – what components are most important for hair? https://piotrturkowski.pl/en/blog/emollients-humectants-proteins-what-components-are-most-important-for-hair/